Foula Froak (Ganzy)

The Foula froak or fisherman's ganzy is unique in the Shetland Isles, and was knitted to fit a specific individual. By adapting the gussets, the size of the diamonds, and the number of stitches between pleats, the same pattern was maintained whatever the shape of the intended wearer.

The sets of three throughout the patterns were maintained as absolute necessity - this has been explained as relating to the Holy Trinity, but also to "verdi" or superstition. The bigger diamonds represented the bigger mesh in a cod net, the smaller diamonds the finer mesh in the herring nets. The pattern in the bigger diamonds was varied according to the family tradition, some were solid, some a set of concentric diamonds, some with motifs in the centre like an anchor or cross.

The sets of three parallel horizontal lines represented hand-lines, and the sets of three cables the heavy seine-net warps. The pleating in the cables had to open upwards otherwise the luck would drain out. Each ganzy had the initials of the recipient worked into the plain bottom section above the welt. The plain sections on the body and the sleeves were the sections taking the most wear and could easily be repaired or replaced without disturbing the main pattern.

The whole garment is knitted seamless and totally reversible, to allow for hasty pulling on during working shifts in darkness, and to spread the areas of wear. The garment is tailored to fit a man's torso closely by knitting in gussets underarm and round the top curve of the shoulder - this gave warmth without unnecessary bulk, to allow comfortable wear beneath a canvas smock.

Most men had a working ganzy and a "kirsen" ("Christian" or decent) ganzy which was worn under a navy-blue suit to the kirk on Sunday to save wearing a collar and tie.

A loose knitted Foula Froak for special occasions.

Photograph from the Shetland Museum Archives.