Foula 1883

Another terrific gale broke out yesterday morning from the south-east, accompanied by a continuous downpour of rain. Owing to the stormy weather which has prevailed during the past two months there has been no mail communication with the Island of Foula, situated in the Atlantic, distant twenty miles from the mainland of Shetland, for seventy days.

FOULA, SHETLAND

From The Scotsman 05/03/1883

The island of Foula, lying on the west side of Shetland, has, a correspondent telegraphs, had communication during the past week with the mainland for the first time during the present year, no boats having crossed for upwards of nine weeks. Large supplies are generally laid in by the people during the winter months, but it is a number of years since the weather has prevented communication for so long a period, and provisions consequently were getting short. Several families have been without sugar and tea for a fortnight, and some had been without meal, and would have been on the point of starvation had it not been for the help received from neighbours who were better supplied. The weather moderated last week, and a boat was able to start for the mainland to fetch in the much-needed supplies.

DISCOVERY OF HUMAN REMAINS IN A SHETLAND PEAT BOG.

From The Scotsman 20/03/1884

We have been favoured with the following extracts from a letter from Shetland recently received by a gentleman in Edinburgh : - “At the beginning of June last I went to the island of Foula, and resided there for three months, the greater part of my time being spent in archaeological researches. Two or three days after my arrival I happened that a bone, supposed to be human, had been found by a man who was cutting peats. Accompanied by the catechist, I went to the spot, and my guide leapt into the ditch, and in a few minutes uncovered what appeared to be the skin of a cow or other quadruped, which he endeavoured, but unsuccessfully, to draw out of the peaty mud. Shortly afterwards he handed me something which proved to be a human foot. Under the skin, which was torn in front, I could see the tendons, which were quite fresh. The catechist rather thoughtlessly beat the body with his spade and knocked out the bowels, the contents having retained the natural colour. Next day I went alone to the spot, and with some difficulty lifted the body up and laid it on the bank. The head had been knocked to a pulp, and the arms and feet had been cut off by the spade or tuskar. The skin was pliable, and, until exposed to the air for a time, of the natural colour. It soon turned black, however, and the whole frame collapsed. I looked inside the chest, and handled the lungs and liver, which, excepting that they were somewhat shrivelled, appeared like those of one who had recently died. It seemed to be the body of a well-made, red-haired man. The bones were black as ink, and spongy. I thought at the time I had made a thorough post-mortem examination; but regretted on reflection that I had not inspected more completely both the corpse and the place of internment. But although the remains were inodorous, and I felt no disgust at the time, a feeling of loathing prevented me from exhuming them again. They lay about six feet under the present surface, upon an ancient surface which was covered with stunted heather, perfectly fresh. At the same level the roots of trees are numerous – small trees seem to have struggled in a windy climate. Tradition, which was struck dumb for some days, and scratched its head in vain for an explanation, at length remembered that a man afflicted with leprosy had lived in a turf hut near the spot, and had been buried there. But for various reasons I declined to accept this explanation. It is just as probable that the body may have lain in its antiseptic bed for two thousand years as for two hundred. I conjecture that it was that of some individual who had dropped through the surface before the peat had hardened, and been drowned and buried at the same time.”

INQUIRY AT FOULA from The Scotsman 19/07/1883

FOULA, SHETLAND, Wednesday. – To-day the Commission visited the island of Foula, the westmost of the Shetland group, lying about 16 miles from the mainland. There are about 270 inhabitants on the island, which belongs to Mr Scott of Melby, and the yearly rental is £140. The families number 38, all of whom combine crofting with fishing. Cod and ling fishing are prosecuted round the coast in boats of the “Sixern” build, but this year two large-decked boats are engaged at the herring fishing at Walls, to which parish the island is attached, manned with crews from Foula. The island is chiefly remarkable for the lofty sea cliffs on the west, which rise almost perpendicularly to an altitude of 1200 feet. A landing can only be effected upon the island in calm weather, and the Commissioners were fortunate in having for their visit an exceptionally fine day. After landing, the Commissioners proceeded to the school-house, but the day was so inviting that it was resolved to hold the meeting in the open air. All the Commissioners were present with the exception of Lord Napier, and in his absence Sir K. Mackenzie presided. Forty or fifty persons were present.

Mr ROBERT GEAR, Church of Scotland catechist and crofter, in reply to Sir K. Mackenzie, said he had been eleven years in the island. The people of Foula knew the Commission was coming, and they had elected himself and Mr Andrew Robertson to represent their views. The witness read the minutes of a meeting held on the 11^th June at the Congregational manse, and presided over by Mr George Morrison, the Congregational minister, which bore that the people had raised a subscription to send delegates to Lerwick, if the Commission should not come to Foula, and that the memorial to be presented was a faithful expression of their wishes. The memorial in question set forth that the island lay in the Atlantic, about 16 miles from the mainland of Shetland, and was owned by Mr R. S. C. Scott of Melby. The factor was Mr James Gariock, Reawick. The population was 275, and the number of crofts 40. They respectfully submitted that their rents were excessive, and out of all proportion either to the value of what the soil could produce, or to the value of the land in the rich farming district of Scotland. They were unable to state the exact sum paid by each as rent, as the public burdens were collected along with it, and they got no receipts; but as nearly as they could calculate, the best portion of the isle was rented all over at 23s. per acre for arable land, including the right to hill pasturage. The soil is very poor and exhausted, and owing to the peculiar position of the island a large part of the crop was often either blasted by sea, or shaken and destroyed by violent gales. They had calculated that on an average their crops did not provide them with bread for more than from 4 and one half to 5 months in the year; all the rest they must buy. In recent years rents had fallen in Scotland. Here no man ever heard of rent decreasing; it had been rising, rising, rising for generations. Whenever church or manse repairs were executed in Walls, there was an increase of rent all over the Melby estate to cover the cost, and that remains till the next repairs were called for, when increase number 2 was made in addition to increase number 1. The manse in Walls was built about 1867. Most of them had paid 10s. a year since towards its cost, and there was no indication of the charge ceasing. There was no work to be had in the island. They must depend on the sea for their often precarious enough means of existence, and they respectfully submitted that it was entirely unjust for them to be charged rents which their crofts could not produce, but which must be fished out of the sea. Even were their rents more equitable, they would still be placed at a disadvantage, their situation compelling them to sell in the cheapest and buy in the dearest market. Eviction had never been resorted to here. For a long time the landlords had been of a good type, and the factors as sympathetic and forbearing as possible; but they could not tell how soon changes might come, and they respectfully submitted that there tenure should be secured by something more permanent than the good disposition of a factor, who might soon be removed. As tenants, they had nothing but praise to give to the present factor. He had ever been considerate and merciful; and as islanders they owed much to the merchants for whom they fished, Messrs Garriock & Co., Reawick. Whether they were in debt or not they always supplied them with the necessaries of life, and they had done so in cases where there was little probability that they would ever be paid. They regretted that so many of them were getting more indebted, and not able to pay their way year by year. They respectfully gave the following practical suggestions for the altering of their condition. Some of these would be mainly for their benefit, but others would, in their opinion, be largely for the public advantage: - (1) that a substantial reduction be made on existing rents; (2) that the power of eviction be curtailed by leases or otherwise, and (3) that compensation be given for tenants’ improvements; (4) that the attention of the government be called to the very unsatisfactory and inefficient mail service, and to the necessity for employing a more suitable vessel, and for making Walls the port of departure instead of Garderhouse (the former is much nearer Foula); (5) in the interests, not only of the island, but of the national fisheries, particularly white fish and herring, so advantageously situated a fishing station as Foula should be turned to account by the construction of a harbour; (6) that in the interest of the fishing, and for the safety of the mercantile marine, a lighthouse should be erected here. In supplement of the memorial, Mr Gear handed in the following list of the crofters’ grievances: - (1) The whole trade of the island is a monopoly in the hands of the merchants, MESSRS Garriock & Co., and the inhabitants in consequence do not enjoy the benefits of competition, and, although most industrious, are kept in a state of hopeless poverty; (2) the want of fixity of tenure perpetuates this system by deterring competition; (3) the want of a proper mail service retards the development of the resources of the islands; (a small packet about 14 tons burden at present carries the mail from Garderhouse, near Reawick, instead of from the Post Office at Walls, which is not much over half the distance; she ought to visit the island once a fortnight, but it frequently happens that there is no communication between Foula and the outside world for perhaps two months at a time, and last spring the inhabitants were obliged (as the packet was unable to cross) to go for supplies to the mainland in one of their six-oared boats); (4) the want of a harbour (which qualified men say could be constructed without difficulty and at a comparatively small outlay) is also a great obstacle to the prosecution of the herring and other fishing industries, for which the island is so well adapted, and also as a place of refuge, and the consequent welfare of the people; (5) the continued charge for building the manse at Walls, of which parish Foula forms a part, and the cost of which, we believe, should have been defrayed long ago from the revenue derivable from Church lands. Mr Gear went on to say that he trusted the Commissioners would use their influence in protecting him from any annoyance which those in power might feel inclined to inflict in consequence of his having thus given a true description of the condition of the inhabitants of Foula from personal experience.

By the Chairman – The Messrs Garriock gave the inhabitants less prices for their fish and other articles of produce than they could get elsewhere. Cattle sold here last year realised at least a third, perhaps the half, less than the price that would have been got on the mainland. Last year the price was 22s.

Q. – Did not Messrs Garriock offer to give up their business about ten or eleven years ago, and did not the people to a man sign a paper that the monopoly should not be given up?

A. – Yes, he believed they signed Mr Garriock’s paper to fish for him.

Q. – Why did they do that if they wished the monopoly broken up?

A. – Because the people have been so long enslaved, not only here, but all over Shetland, that they are afraid of the evils that might result if they opposed the factors.

Q. – Are you of opinion that if Messrs Garriock would withdraw their shop, and have nothing to do with trade, that the people would find an outlet for their produce?

A. – Yes: there would be competition directly. Two or three shops would be started, and the competition would bring down the prices. Personally he had no objection to Mr Garriock.

A CROFTER – If it had not been for Mr Garrioch, some of us would not have been alive. Mr Garriock has done like a gentleman for the people, and we ought to be thankful to him for it. (Several voices – “That’s right.”)

By the Chairman – He was of opinion that if the trade of the place were thrown open to competition it would be a benefit, and he believed that was the opinion of the people of the island.

Mr MORRISON, Congregational Church missionary – That is not the opinion of the people here. Mr Gear is travelling quite beyond his record.

By the Chairman – This was a particularly good station for fishing, and if a good harbour were made other fishermen would come here. It was nearer the fishing grounds than other points. He thought a lighthouse on Foula would contribute to the safety of vessels in the long dark winter nights.

By Mr Cameron – The average rent of the crofters was about £4, which included rates. They had each between 3 and 4 acres of arable ground, and as a rule they kept 7 cattle of all sorts. He did not himself consider that the rents were excessive, but the crops were very liable to be destroyed by violent gales, and in such years the landlord should consider the poor tenants a little then. The principal grievance was the raising of the rents in consequence of the Walls Church and manse rates, from which the people of Foula derived no benefit.

By Mr Fraser-Mackintosh – The want of leases tended very much to discourage improvements. No newcomer would get any encouragement to open a shop in that island, so that they were just a close monopoly in these days of free-trade.

By Sheriff Nicolson – The rents ranged from £2 to £5, and the crofters could keep as much stock as they pleased. Their stock averaged three cows, with their young ones, and six sheep. None of the crofters were allowed to keep horses or ponies, but the proprietors had some ponies on the island. Ponies were very useful in helping them with the peats. At present some of the crofters had to carry them on their backs more than a mile. The soil was peaty or clayey.

Q. – What crop grows best?

A. – None at all. (Laughter.) The best return would be three or fourfold. Besides oats and potatoes they raised a little bere. They had an abundant supply of peat, but it was at some distance from the crofts. On the south side of the island the men and women carried peats home in creels, and the women were also engaged in knitting small shawls of the common kind, and which were never sold out of the island. The sheep were crosses, as the native breed had almost died out.

By Professor Mackinnon – He was a catechist in connection with the Society for the Propagation of Christian Knowledge. The people got no advantage from the parish of Walls. The minister of Walls was supposed to visit them once a year.

By Mr Cameron – But does not bring the manse with him?

A. – No. (Laughter.) Witness, continuing, said it would be good if the crofters had a limit placed on the stock on the scathold. He thought the people of Foula would bear favourable comparison with Shetlanders for intelligence. He knew of a man who had sold a three-year-old quey to Mr Garriock for £2. 18s., which would have fetched £5 on the mainland. A strange broker would be afraid to visit the island.

Mr GEO. MORRISON (26). Pastor of the Congregational Church, said he had been two years on the island. He had been chairman at the meetings of the inhabitants, and the only objection offered to the memorial was made by Mr Gear; but that gentleman did not express the mind of the people. When he spoke about Mr Garriock being a monopolist, he did not think it desirable that another shop should be opened in the island.

Mr Cameron – It was hardly right to say Messrs Garriock had a monopoly, as a trading vessel came into the harbour a few months ago for the purpose of buying produce and selling goods. The men were not bound to fish for the Messrs Garriock, and in proof of that, he might mention that twelve men were this year at the Walls herring fishing.

By Mr Fraser-Mackingtosh – it was no doubt for their own benefit that the Messrs Garriock kept a store at Foula.

Q. – Is it not the fact that the proprietor prohibits any other person from carrying on business at Foula?

A. – I can’t say as to that; but he thought no other merchant would care to make the experiment.

By Professor Mackinnon – In the circumstances the present arrangements were practically as good as any others that could be made.

Q. – If you heard that the opening up of the Fair Isle had done the people good, would that change your view?

A. – He thought that the Fair Islanders used to be much more oppressed than the Foula people. Their landlord was much more exacting and grasping.

Q. – Do you think that a voluntary merchant coming here would not be likely to supply the people better both by purchase and by sale than they are supplied at present?

A. – Not permanently. Whoever came here must purchase the fish, and the hosier was to supply the people with goods; and, of course, hosiery was very often a drug in the market.

By Sheriff Nicolson – He was connected with the Congregational Union, but he was not an ordained minister. Most of the inhabitants belonged to the Congregational denomination. The number connected with the Church of Scotland was very small. There was no sectarian feeling among the people, and they attended church very regularly. They were very particular in their observance of the Sabbath, although they were not so strict Sabbatarians as the people in the West of Scotland and the Hebrides. Q. – Do they consider it a sin to wander about admiring the beauties of nature on the Sabbath? A. – Oh, no; they are not so straight-laced as that. Q. – Are they against such vain things as singing songs? A. – No; the inhabitants are very musical; they are very fond of sacred music. He believed that the old practice of fowling had almost entirely ceased now.

JAMES GRAY, 50, fisherman and crofter, said that the men had to sell their fish green to the merchant, because he advanced supplies to them. He advanced provisions to them even although the fishing was a bad one. If it were not for that they could dry their fish and sell them themselves. Their principal complaint was that their rents were high. He paid £5, which was the highest on the island. He had been 26 years on the croft, and only in one year had the produce been sufficient for his family. He had usually to buy meal for five or six months.

Towards the close of the meeting the proceedings took a conversational shape. A number of men made brief statements, which were chiefly in regard to the fishing. One man said that the amount usually earned by a fisherman was from £4 to £6 a year, while he stated that one year while he was young he had made as much as £20. All the men agreed in saying that they were always in debt. There were a number of boys about 14 years of age employed on the beach drying the fish. They received wages of their own. As soon as he began to earn wages, a boy drew goods from the merchant. The settling time with the merchant was in the summer. The usual time on the mainland was November, but the island could not be reached at that time of year. A good many of the young men left the island and got employment as sailors. About twenty years ago a number of people had emigrated to Australia. Very few of the people who went away came back. The young women did not go away. The price received for ling was 6s. 6d. per cwt.; for cod, 5s. to 7s.; and for tusk, 5s. The fishermen used ling, cod, and tusk heads for bait for good turbot. If they had a steamboat to carry away their turbot and their fresh fish they would get good prices for them. They could then get some money, and become kind of rich. The men of Foula did not, as a rule, engage in the herring fishing. The people looked upon Mr Garriock as a merciful man. On account of their own ignorance people were very apt to grumble, but they did think things were dear at the store. The price charged for tobacco was 6s. per lb. As to their food, fish was largely used. In winter they had for breakfast bread and milk when they had it, and sometimes they had a little black bread and a cup of tea. They had fish and potatoes for dinner; but the potatoes were very wet, one could wring the water from them. They rarely killed a cow, but they ate their old sheep. They had no doctor in the island. The nearest was at Walls, on the mainland. Most of them, however, enjoyed good health.

Q. – Perhaps none the worse for not having a doctor?

A. – Well, may be. (Laughter.)

Sheriff Nicolson—Potatoes and fish seem to make you as big and strong men as we have seen anywhere. (Laughter.)

By Sir Kenneth Mackenzie—He did not know of anything that could be done to improve their crofts. Their fathers did all that could be done, but if they had a lease of them they would certainly work with better heart.

By Professor Mackinnon—As a matter of fact, nobody ever had been put off their crofts. They were not very rebellious here; but they would like their rents reduced. They all complained of the price they got for their eggs from Messrs Garriock, which was 41/2d. in summer and 6d. in winter. In building the houses, the proprietor gave £10 for each dwelling, and all beyond that had to be provided by the tenant. In Foula they had the fire in the middle of the house. None of them kept their cows under the family roof. .

The proceedings then terminated by the Chairman thanking the islanders for coming out to speak with them. The people replied that they were glad to see the Commissioners in the island. The Commissioners then proceeded to inspect the Island, and ascended the top of the high cliffs, and enjoyed a splendid look-out on all sides. On descending again to the shore a wish was conveyed to them that a representative from Messrs Garriock & Co, would like to be heard. This they at once agreed to.

Mr ALEXANDER INKSTER, 20, manager at Reawick for Messrs Garriock & Co., said he had come to the island for the purpose of settling with the fishermen, and to collect the rents due at November last. In the latter capacity he was acting for the factor. He had to say that the Messrs Garriock & Co. always paid the same price for fish as on the mainland, without making any deduction for freight. The fishermen were at perfect liberty to sell their fish to whoever they chose. Mr Gear’s statement in regard to the price of shop goods was incorrect. The prices charged were the same as at Lerwick, except meal, which was 6d or 5s. per boll more for freight. The common tobacco was1s. per lb., but for a tobacco which was specially prepared to stand the winter they charged 5s. l0d. As to cattle, Mr Garriock had more than once offered to take across cattle to the mainland and expose them at the market held at Walls, paying the people prices realised less the cost of sending them to the sale, but they preferred to sell them on the island to avoid all risk. The landlord or factor should not in any way interfere with the people in selling cattle. With reference to eggs the price was only one penny per dozen less than on the mainland, and that was because the shells were very thin and liable to break. He did not think that the rents were too high, all things considered; and he could say, as he had the rent-book in his possession up to 1865, that the rents had not been raised since then. The rates, of course, were not under the landlord's control. The average rental of each croft was £3, 10s., and there were 38 crofts. Only 10 of these 38 crofters were due balances on the rent-book last year. In five cases these were under £3.

Mr Fraser-Mackintosh--No doubt the isolated condition of the people was against them; still he did not think they had much to complain of against the existing arrangements of the island.

Q.— But did you not hear a chorus of approval that it was stated the rents were too high! Don’t you think that represents the true feeling of the people?

A.— Perhaps it did. His employers had in all three shops, but they had other fishing stations round Shetland.

Q. —Do employers find it worth their while to keep open a shop at Foula?

A —Well, no doubt they made a working profit sufficient to induce them to do so.

Q.— Are most of the people of Foula in debt to you?

A.— No, perhaps a dozen were in debt to the firm. He was not aware that there was any prohibition against any other person opening a curing station on this island. The proprietor of the island lived at Melby. He was under age, and did not often come to the island.

Q.—What does the proprietor do for the island? Are you aware of anything he has laid out upon it?

A.—He was not prepared at this moment to answer that. He did not know about the rent having been raised to pay for any of the Walls manse rate. He could see nothing of that in the books back to 1875. He should say if it was so, and if the manse had been now paid, it would be proper to reduce the rent again.

Q.—Do you consider that the state of the island is satisfactory when the people are dependent on the landlord and on your firm in the way that they are ?

A.—Well, it was hardly for him to give an opinion on the question, as it was the same with them as all over Shetland. Considering the low rental of the island, and the taxes, it was scarcely worth the proprietor's while keeping it. It might be better to let the fishermen buy it if they were able. If a good harbour were made it would very much improve Foula as a fishing station. There were plenty of herrings round it all the year, and the fishermen knew it.

By Sir Kenneth Mackenzie—Mr Garriock himself told him that he made the proposal to the people about taking their cattle to the mainland to sell them for them.

Mr gear said it was the first time such a thing had been heard of. (To this remark many of the fishermen gave their assent.)

Sir Kenneth Mackenzie—Well, if it was not made before, the offer is made now, and to that extent the visit of the Commission to the island will not be worthless.

To the witness - Do I understand you to say that Messrs Garriock have departed from the position they took up twelve years ago, that they must have all the trade or none?

Witness replied that he was not aware that they had. In the event of the fishermen going past them with their fish, the Messrs Garriock would withdraw. After the meeting, the Commissioners were escorted to the shore by the inhabitants. The ship sailed round to the front of the higher cliffs of the island, and then left for Scalloway, where the Commissioners landed about ten o'clock, and drove to Lerwick.

The Island of Foula

From The Scotsman 25/07/1883

On a clear day, from almost any point on the west coast of Shetland, the Island of Foula may be seen rising high in the ocean. But, though only sixteen miles west from the nearest point of the Mainland, the place is very isolated, if, indeed, it may not almost be described as practically out of the world. Trading steamers rarely touch, and any one desirous of visiting it must go to Walls, hire a boat's crew, and wait patiently for the first day when wind and tide may combine to render practicable a landing in the little creek. A suitable day may occur soon; or, it may be, that after keeping the crew in idleness for a week_,the intending visitor gets tired of waiting and gives up the attempt. Foula may be described as the St Kilda of the Shetland group; and though, possibly, it has not attracted so much attention as that interesting island, which rises from the waste of waters, out of sight of all other land, it is not less worthy of a visit; and in some respects may even hear off the palm against St Kilda or any other competitor. It can fairly boast the most stupendous shore cliffs in the United Kingdom; and the view from the top of the "Sneug” is worth going a long day's journey to see. It was, therefore, with no little zest that on a morning favourable for the voyage I stepped on board the North Star, then lying at Hillswick, St Magnus Bay, in waiting to convey the Crofters Commissioners to the island. St Magnus Bay itself has picturesque features, in the stacks of rock rise in fantastic form right out of the sea, and over which, on the morning in question, the waves were sending clouds of spray. Through one of these rocks, named the Dore Holm, the sea has worn a great arch, said to be 500 feet in width by 150 feet in height, and which as seen from the deck of the steamer gives the outlying portion of the rock the appearance of a huge flying buttress.

The North Star took about three hours to make the passage. Foula being reached about half-past eleven o'clock. On the east side the island rises from the sea in a series of steep ascents to the top of the hills, three peaks of which stand prominently out. The hills slope gradually away to the southward, but on the north there is a bold headland, the line of which has been worked into many a curious curve; while on the west tremendous cliffs drop sheer down from the summit of the island to the water. The “Sneug" is the highest peak. Its top is set somewhat back from the sea, and its east side slopes precipitously to the valley below, in which is a little loch. The whole Island, as seen from the steamer, presented an aspect as pleasing as it was striking—the hills; to their tops, being covered with verdure.

No sooner had the vessel stopped than a large “sixern" with a crew of six powerful rowers put off from the shore, and pulled towards her. On coming up they explained that they thought the Commissioners might want some assistance in landing; but these gentlemen were already on their way to the shore in one of the ship's boats. The islanders, however did not want for passengers, for they conveyed another party of over a dozen from the ship to the island, running into a somewhat narrow but deep creek, the bottom of which was covered with pure sand. The boatmen looked at first sight somewhat uncouth, most of them having long sandy hair and whiskers, uncut and untrimmed, and being clad in dark worsted blouses, which helped to give them a rather piratical aspect. But, on watching them for a little, one's impression became more favourable. Stroke oar, a big powerful fellow, had soft blue eyes and a bluff open face; another nearer the bow showed a distinctly Norwegian type of countenance; and the general vigour of the crew was significantly displayed in the way their deep-set stroke, in precise time, sent the heavily-laden boat through the water. For, in addition to the passengers, they had in the stern several hundred weight of ling and cod, which they had caught over-night at the haaf fishing. On the rocks, on both sides of the creek, were fish laid out to dry, and the whole place which, by the way, is called Ham—had a decidedly fishy smell. On landing the party struck away up a narrow path by the side of a field of bere towards the school-house. The slopes on the left, leading down to a little burn, were gay with the red campion, yellow rattle, buttercup, ox-eye daisy, and yellow iris—these wild flowers being finer than anything that had been seen elsewhere in Shetland. The day was delightfully fine; and the Commissioners decided to hold their meeting in the open air, on the greensward in front of the school-house. But just as the proceedings were about to begin, out trooped the school children—some five-and-twenty in number—and were treated by one of the Commissioners to a handful of "sweeties" a piece, a little present which seemed to be much appreciated. The appearance of the children was somewhat of a surprise, Alongside of sturdy, sunburnt men in rough fisher costume, they showed pale, almost sickly, faces, and altogether looked as if they had been reared in the close atmosphere of a city rather than in the free air of an island in the Atlantic. It was, however, some satisfaction to see that they could romp and run; and that some of the boys were eager to take an oar in the sixern on the return trip to the steamer. Foula is the property of Mr Scott of Melby, and contains about 257 inhabitants, divided into 40 families. There is one store on the island, that of Messrs Garriock & Co., and the manner in which business is there conducted seemed to be one of the burning questions of Foula society. Their chief complaint, however, was that their crofts were too highly rented: that they had to fish the rent out of the sea, instead of the croft paying itself. The monopoly which Messrs Garriock enjoy in Foula, as fishcurers and merchants, was remarked upon by many of the men, though in a perfectly respectful way. It was, perhaps, not wonderful that the two spiritual advisers of the people took different sides on this question; Mr Morrison, the Congregational pastor - the fishermen mostly belong to that body—being afraid to risk any change, in case they might fare worse; while Mr Gear, the Church of Scotland catechist, boldly advocated the throwing of the trade of Foula "open to the world.” Messrs Garriock appeared, when all was said, to be no worse than their neighbours—indeed, some of the men mentioned their name in grateful terms. The system, however, is no doubt radically bad that allows fishermen to run in debt, and "thirls” them for life, as it were, to fish for persons towards whom they occupy the position, practically, of bondmen. The crofts of the fishermen are from three to four acres in extent, cut out of the moor, which everywhere abounds; and they have all the rest of the island as “scathold," the proprietor contenting himself with feeding a few ponies. For their agriculture little can be said, except that they are no worse farmers than the fishermen on the Mainland. The formation of a harbour was also the subject of conversation. The proposal was that the creek should be deepened and carried further inland; - which was estimated could be done for about £2000. Foula, if such a boat harbour were constructed, would prove an admirable fishing station. The sea around abounds with herrings and white fish, and the island would no doubt be reported to by many strangers. The government has often spent more money on less deserving projects of harbour building than what is here proposed; and one would like to see so sensible, quiet, and brave fishermen get a little help in the world.

The meeting over, the people quietly dispersed to talk over the great event of the day: while the Commissioners, with guides, started for the cliffs. Foula was, it seems, at one time a famous place for cragsmen, and it is said to have been a Foula man that scaled the cliff of Noss, off Bressay, and fixed the famed cradle of Noss. One of the islanders—a man of well-knit frame and courageous aspect—wished the Commissioners to allow him to give an exhibition of fowling over face of the Kame; but Sir Kenneth Mackenzie was averse to the risking of life in such a way, much as some of the party would have liked to witness the feat. The Noup, which forms the south-western headland, was first visited, and an excellent view obtained from the Sneug of its overhanging cliffs, which rise about 1000 feet out of the water. The cliffs are of a coarse sandstone, and are constantly breaking away from the action of the waves. On the east side there is a small exposure of granitic rock; but this does not extend to any distance from the creek. Between the Noup and the next hill northward there is a great valley scooped out, apparently by glacial action; while on the east side of the Sneug there are traces of the same denuding agent. On the way to the Kame, the party came upon several nests of the great Skua gull, which resorts to Foula to breed, and which is strictly preserved by the proprietor. The bird, which is of a dirty brown colour, often measures from 5 to 6 feet across the wings, and is of a remarkably bold disposition. Several members of the party having stopped to examine the young birds, the old ones instantly showed fight—swooping down, and attempting to strike the intruders with their powerful wings. The Kame is the tallest cliff in Britain, being close on 1300 feet in height. On the top of it the party rested, and surveyed the splendid prospect spread out before them. On the one hand was the Atlantic, at a tremendous depth below; on the other, the rugged coast of the Mainland, upon which the sun was shedding a subdued light through gaps in the clouds. Two or three of the more adventurous spirits crept to the edge of the cliff and looked over the dizzy brink, from which clouds of seabirds could be seen hovering like snowflakes in the depths below. After tasting the water of a sulphur spring at the top of the Kame, the party descended the steep sides of the Sneug; and returned to the creek, which was reached about 5 o'clock. There a number of shawls, shown by a woman of the island, were purchased; and thereafter the Commissioners took leave, amid the good wishes of the inhabitants, for whom their visit will no doubt form a red letter day in the history of the island.

More About the Crofters

A SHERIFF-OFFICER DEFORCED AT FOULA.

From The Scotsman 24/11/1883

Intelligence has just been received at Lerwick from the Island of Foula, stating that the inhabitants have this week been in a state of great excitement over the case of Robert Gear, a crofter in the island, who was one of the delegates who gave evidence before the Crofters’ Commissioners when they visited Foula. A decree of eviction, at the instance of the proprietor of the island, was recently obtained against Gear in the Shetland Sheriff Court, and about the same time Messrs Garriock & Co., against whom Gear made complaints to the Commissioners, obtained decree against him for a debt of upwards of £40. The decree has been charged upon, but as Gear has little means besides his farm stock and household furniture, an officer this week went to Foula for the purpose of poinding and rouping the effects. The officer was, however, deforced, nearly the whole of the people taking part with Gear: and although no violence was offered to the officer, the people were dared to purchase a single article offered for sale. The officer did not proceed with the poinding; but no further details as to the subsequent steps have yet been received.

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