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A tour through the islands of Orkney and Shetland in 1774   by George Low.

    Monday, July 4th.—Took boat for Foula, situate 8 leagues from the nearest land, a small island about 3 miles long and 2 broad; surrounded on all sides by turbulent tides and dangerous rousts; but, notwithstanding of this, may be passed by skilful people in tolerable weather in the smallest Schetland yawl, and that without the least danger. A great sea usually runs in the shallows, which are a large fishing ground about half way over, but this does not hinder the inhabitants from catching vast numbers of fine middle-sized cod here, and indeed it is remarkable that where the greatest sea runs, or near the most dangerous roust, there the fish are to be found both largest and in greatest numbers. This we daily experience in the Rousts of Pightland Firth, Sumburgh Roust, round the Fair Isle, and nowhere more remarkably than around Foula. As we had but little wind it cost us seven hours' work to reach the island; and, on our landing, all the inhabitants within reach came down and welcomed us as strangers, shaking hands all round. Our boatsmen and my servant were distributed among the different families of the isle, and I together with a gentleman who accompanied me had lodgings assigned in the Bailie's Booth, where in a short time we had everything for the table sent us in plenty, such as fish of several kinds, fowls, milk, butter, and eggs, without any expense. When I offered to pay for what we had they were much affronted, and told me no such thing ever happened in Foula as to pay for eatables. They indeed are but poorly off for beds, this article we were obliged to carry with us. In all our walks thro’ the island we found the doors open to receive us, and it was taken as a favour frankly to take a part of what was offered, and, indeed hospitality seems to reign there still in its primitive state, unfetter’d by the niceties of form, or frivolities of custom. Their regard for strangers shews itself in nothing more than this, when I was taking my rounds thro’ the different parts of the island, those that had not seen me before, tho’ they were a quarter of a mile’s distance, would come with the utmost speed to welcome me as a stranger, and shake hands; nor did they seem actuated by that prying curiosity so conspicuous elsewhere, but rather from simple kindness; for, when they had performed this (to them) so essential ceremony, they usually retired perfectly satisfied, very seldom indeed asking the least question as to the rest of the world, from which nature seems to have shut them off, and inclination seldom spurs them to visit, except the next land of Schetland. I am very far from saying, however, that it is want of spirit that hinders them from being more acquainted with their neighbours; this is not the case, for there have been many instances of three or four Foula men’s going thence, in one of their yawls, as far as Kirkwal, in Orkney, which is more than 40 leagues of a most turbulent ocean, and returning safe; but they seem contented with their own rock, and search no further. Foula is a very high land, and can be seen at a great distance from the sea; the west coast consists of vast precipices; (This was the Thule of Tacitus which from its height was easily seen in the circumnavigation of the Orkneys by the Roman fleet. Despecta est et Thule. Vide Vita Agricolae. How nearly is the name still preserved!) the east side lower, but in very few places accessible, except at the common landing place, which is so narrow that scarce can two boats get in at the same time. They have, indeed, a few other loops and coves into which boats may run in summer, but few would choose it unless Schetlandmen indeed! Since Brand’s time Foula is a deal improved as to the quantity of its Corn ground. They have now neat plantations in three places, and these increasing, but still their corn scarce serves them. Potatoes have been lately introduced, and thriving very well, are a vast saving to the poor inhabitants in the article of meal, and agree very well with them when eaten with their fish, instead of bread. Oats and Bear thrive with vast luxuriancy, especially in the first cultivated spot, called Hame-town, where I observed likewise a fine meadow. All their grounds are wrought with the spade; no plough in Foula, tho’ they have the strongest horses in Schetland, but it must be remembered that the Shelties are good for nothing in the plough; therefore the Schetlanders till all with oxen, using the same sort of plough as in Orkney. The uncultivated part of Foula is an entire hill, covered with the different kinds of moss grasses, mostly Carices, which affords good pasture for their Cattle, Horses and Sheep in summer, but in winter covered with snow, which here lies sometimes 6 or 8 weeks together, owing to the great height of their hills.  These hills are surprisingly steep; the ascent is so steep that one is forced to take fast hold of the heath to prevent tumbling down, as there is no such thing as stopping till he is dashed to pieces, as happened to a poor woman in gathering dye stuff a short time before I went there. The ascent towards the east, rocky and wild, shooting up into several summits; the westside highest, but suddenly broken off in a dreadful precipice, inhabited by myriads of sea fowl of different kinds, as Shags and Cormorants, on the lower benches, and the whole rock alive with Tomies, Lomvies or Guillimotes, Wilkies or Auks, and Tystes. The Lieres or Lyres possess a part of the rock by themselves, as do the Kittiwakes and other Gulls. The dimensions of every one of these birds are the same with these in Orkney, nor could I hear of any remarkable birds here but what are found in Orkney. Neither the Fulmar, Great Auk, nor the Solan, build here, which is something surprising. It is the number, not the variety, that amazes one, and indeed all the flights I had before seen are nothing to this; as far as the eye can stretch, the whole precipice swarms, the sea around is covered, and the air in perpetual motion,flocking either to or from the rock.. . .all the inhabitants.   

    As the rocks in Foula are so well inhabited, the lower grounds and moors are the same; these are covered with thousands of the Parasitick Gull, which build among the heather, and lay two eggs of an olive colour, thinly blotched with darker shades, pretty large for the body of the bird, the shell tender and easily broken. This bird lives on the half digested food of its congeners, which they are very ready to throw up upon being disturbed, and it is no less nimble in catching. It is very artful in drawing the traveler from its nest, has many sleights for this purpose – sometimes it throws itself on the earth wioth all the appearance of a wounded bird, dragging its wings as if it could make no use of them, tumbling about as if its legs too were broke; at other times it pelts the too curious impertinent with great briskness, uttering a sort of determined scream, as in the former case it mews something like a cat, most piteously. This bird much varies in colour, observed three varieties; one wholly black, another dusky brown, the third with a white belly and a white ring round its neck, all of them old ones, as at this time the young birds were not hatched

    Nor are the very summits of the hills without their share of the winged race. Here we find that remarkable bird the Skua, called here Bonxie; six pair of which possess the highest ridge of Liorafield, one of the hill tops so called. Never man had better reason to observe or to remember the natural history of Bonxie than I at this time. I no sooner approached his quarters but he attacked me and my company with so great fury that every one of us were forced to do him obeyance for every stroke. He beat my water Spaniel quite out of the pit, insomuch that he fled to our feet for shelter, and could not be forced out again, tho' a bold dog and well used to encounter Otters, or what else might be lamed by a gun. But tho’ Bonxie seemed to preserve some regard for us while we kept together, upon him he had no mercy, every whip he gave him made his wings crack, and the dog crouch into the hollows of the moor till we came up and relieved him. I followed one at some distance from the nest, which made me part company, and received several very rude salutes for my imprudence from three, who made at me with the outmost rage; I defended myself the best way I could with my gun, fired several times at them, but as none dropt, the report did not startle them in the least, rather seemed to enrage them more. When the inhabitants are looking after their sheep in the hills, the Skua often attacks them in such a manner that they are forced to defend themselves with cudgels, by holding them above their heads, on which it often kills itself. Observed at some distance a great commotion and screaming among the Parasitick Gulls, which was occasioned by a couple of Skuas that struck at them with great agility, laying about them with open bill, but seemingly more thro’ wantonness than otherwise; however, where this bird approaches it occasions great confusion, and other birds express their detestation in the same manner as when the Owl or other bird of prey appears elsewhere. The method of life is much the same with that of the Parasitick Gull, only this attacks the larger kinds of Gulls as the other does the lesser. By the most minute enquiry could not find out that it ever meddled either with its congeners or others to destroy them; its fury seems to be [a stupid-like bird] defensive than offensive; when we meet it at sea it seems to be a stupid-like bird, and sits often down within an oar’s length of the boat. In Foula this is a privileged bird, no man will nor dare shoot it under the penalty of 16s. 8d. Ster., nor destroy its eggs; when they meet it at sea, whatever fish they have in the boat Skua always gets a share, and all this out of gratitude for beating off the Eagle, who dares not venture to prey on the island during the whole breeding season. I asked particularly whether Skua did not sometimes pay himself for defending their flocks, by taking a lamb now and then; they every one assured me they had never seen nor heard an instance of this; the Shepherd gave the very same information. Skua is not so strong as the Eagle, but much more nimble; strikes at him without mercy, with such effect that he makes the other scream aloud, and his retreat is so sudden as to avoid all danger from the Eagle. The description of the British Zoology is good. The neck is much thicker than in other Gulls, the wings reach near the point of the tail; the tail, when flying, is as round as a fan, has no long feathers like the Arctic Gull; the cry hoarse and strong. Lays two eggs in the heath of the highest hills, much of the same colour with those of the Arctic Gull. The weight 3lb. 0oz. 4dr. Length, from the point of the bill to the point of the tail, 2 feet; breadth, 4and a half. The bill 2¼ in., black, strong and crooked; the legs black, webs the same; the talons strong and crooked, but nothing equal to those even of the smaller birds of prey.  

    Crows of the Royston or hooded kind very frequent here and in other parts of Schetland; but few other common birds; few of the Grallae, which is very odd, except Plovers, Sea Pies, and Curlieus and Snipes; no Lapwings, even in summer, in Schetland.  

    They have a small species of Seals pretty frequent round their coasts; and sometimes very large ones venture into the caves, but this is not very frequent: These last in Schetland are called Haf fish, i.e. Seals that keep much at sea, seldom approaching land, except the most retired rocks. I only saw a glimpse of one of the latter, and that, too, swimming; the head seemed at least twice as large both in length and thickness as the ordinary run that are seen about these isles; but whether specifically different or not I am to learn.  

    Vast quantities of Fish caught around Foula, as Ling, Cod Tusk, Haddock, Skate, Halibut, Whitings, Seth or Coal; and the Fishing Frog is frequently driven in here; but Cod seems to be the prevailing fish in this quarter.  At this time there were about 12,000 on the beach, the property of the Landlord, who has every marketable fish that is caught by every boat belonging to the island.  

    The horses on Foula are larger than the generality of the Schetland Shelties, owing I suppose to better management, for I am persuaded it is want of food and other hardships that stunts these creatures in their growth, more than any natural course; for we see them grow much bigger upon being introduced into better pastures in summer and housed in winter, but this indeed renders them less hardy, and would not answer in Schetland, where they have no winter feeding to bestow. Mice are found here, but no rats.  

    Many Dye stuffs are made from the rock scurfs in Foula, particularly a fine reddish purple, called here Coreolet (Lichen tartareus: Fl. Suec. 1070); a yellowish brown, with what they call Old Man (L. saxatiles: Fl. Suec. 1075); yellow, with Heath, and several others, Coreolet is a saleable commodity from Foula. They prepare it by grinding it to powder and steeping in urine for several days, when it is made up in balls of a pound and a half, ready for use. Worsted is boiled in a sufficient quantity of this till the colour is as deep as is desired, without any other process.  

    They have many traditions of there having once been Wood in their Island; they show us a valley, now a moss, which they affirm was covered with it, and to this day in cutting peats often find large pieces of both trunks and branches of trees, tradition says the Lewis-men in their plundering parties thro’ the isles landed here, and after pillaging Foula burnt the wood, lest it should be a shelter to the natives in future times. In Orkney we have many like traditions, true or false is hard to determine; however it is certain the Western Highlanders did often make summer trips to these isles, and seldom returned empty-handed. What further confirms this Foula tradition is, the old people told me they, viz., the Lewis-men, went thence to the Ness of Schetland, where numbers of them were killed, and I have the best information from Mr Bruce of Sumburgh, that on his estate the sand often blows off and discovers heaps of bones, all thrown indiscriminately together, and to this day called the Lewis-men’s graves. But to pass this till we visit Durossness.

    The Foula people are the best climbers in Schetland; live a good part of the summer on wild fowl from the rocks, and fish; which occasions many scrofulous diseases so common thro’ these isles. Their methods of getting at the wild fowl and their eggs are very dangerous. I observed in many places a stake struck about six inches into the bank, and this in many places so rotten as to fly all in pieces with a slight blow; and in all so loose as to shake with the least touch of one’s foot; nay they often strike the blade of a small dagger they usually wear into the ground, and throwing a noose of a fishing cord over any of these, slip down without the least apprehension of danger. They give however a pretty good account of the matter; they tell us they never trust too much to the rope nor the stake, that there is little strain either on the one or the other when once they have got footing on the rock, and they depend more on their own climbing than any rope. But with all this there are frequent instances of their perishing, and few who make this their practice for life die a natural death. It is a common byword in Foula, that such a one’s grandfather went over the rock; his father went over the rock; and if he lives he’ll go over it too.

    Bland, or the serum of Buttermilk separated by heat, is much used as a drink, kept till it is old and sharp, but I should think it dangerous, causing colics, and all kinds of gripes. 

    Here the pronounciation differs a good deal from the rest of Schetland, both in the tone and manner, and pronouncing particular words. To a man they misplace the aspirate, affixing it where it should not be, and leaving it out where it should, e.g., one of the most sagacious of the natives was teaching his son to read the Bible, and to know the numbers of the Psalms; he told the boy the Vorty’th and Zaxt Z’am XLVI, was a Hex, a Hell, a Hu, and a Hi. The following song is the most entire I could find, but the disorder of some of the stanzas will show that it is not wholly so. The subject is a strife between a King of Norway and an Earl of Orkney, on account of the hasty marriage of the Earl with the King's daughter in her father's absence. Here it is worthy to be observed that most of the fragments they have are old historical Ballads and Romances, this kind of poetry being more greedily swallowed and retentively preserved by memory than any others, and most fitted to the genius of the Northerns. In this Ballad I cannot answer for the orthography. I wrote it as an old man pronounced it; nor could he assist me in this particular. This man (William Henry, a farmer in Guttorm, in Foula) has the most knowledge of any I found; he spoke of three kinds of poetry used in Norn, and repeated or sung by the old men; the Ballad (or Romance, I suppose); the Vysie or Vyse, now commonly sung to dancers; and the simple Song. By the account he gave of the matter, the first seems to have been valued here chiefly for its subject, and was commonly repeated in winter by the fireside; the second seems to have been used in publick meetings, now only sung to the dance; and the third at both. Let it be remarked that the following ballad may be either written in two long line or four short line stanzas.

THE EARL OF ORKNEY AND THE KING OF NORWAY'S DAUGHTER: A BALLAD.

1.Da vara Jarlin d'Orkneyar

frinda sǐn spur de ro For
Whirdi an skildè meun
Our glas buryon burtaga

 

2.Or vanna ro eidnar fuo       
Tega du meun our glas buryon
Kere friendè min yamna mento din.

Eso vrildan stiendi gede mn vara

3.Yom keimir cullingin
Fro liene burt Asta
Vaar hon en Hildina                                                        Hemi stu mer stien.

4.Whar an yaar elonden
Ita kan sadnast wo
An scal vara kundè
Wo osta tre sin reithin ridna dar fro

 5.Kemi to Orkneyar Jarlin
Vilda mien sante Maunis
I Orknian u bian sian
I lian far diar.

6.An gevè Drotnign kedn puster
On de kin firsane furu
Tworare wo eder
Whitranè kidn.

7.In kimerin Jarlin
U klapasse Hildina
On de kidn quirto
Vult doch, fiegan vara moch or fly din. *

8.Elde vilda fiegan vara
Fy min u alt sin
Ans namnu wo
So minyach u ere min heve Orkneyar kingè ro. *

9.Nu di skall taga dor yochwo
And u ria dor to strandane nir
U yilsa fy minu avon
Blit an ear ne cumi i dora band.

10.Nu Swaran Konign
So mege gak honon i muthi
Whath ear di ho gane mier
I daute buthe.

11.Trettì merkè vath ru godle
Da skall yach ger yo
U all de vara sonna less
So linge sin yach liva mo.

12.Nu linge stug an konign
U linge wo a swo
Wordig vaar dogh mugè sonè
Yacha skier fare moga so minde yach angan u frien
Rost wath comman mier to landa.

13.Nu swara Hiluge
Hera geve honon scam
Taga di gild firre Hildina
Sin yach skall liga dor fram.

14.Estin whaar u feur fetign
Agonga kadn i sluge
Feur fetign sin gonga
Kadn i pluge.

15.Nu stienderin Jarlin.
U linge wo an wo
Dese mo eke Orknear
So linge san yach lava mo.


16.Nu eke tegaran san
Sot Koningn fyrin din
U alt yach an Hilhugin
Widn ugare din arar.


17.Nu swarar an frauna Hildina
U dem san idne i fro
Di slo dor a bardagana
Dar comme ov sin mo.


18.Nu Jarlin an genger
I vadlin fram
U kadnar sina mien
Geven skeger i Orkneyan.


19.Han u cummin
In u vod lerdin
Fronde fans lever
Vel burne mun.


20.Nu fruna Hildina
On genger i vadlin fram
Fy di yera da ov man dum
Dora di spidlaikì mire man.


21.Nu sware an Hiluge
Crego gevan a scam
Gayer an Jarlin frinde
Din an u fadlin in.

 

22.Nu fac an Jarlin dahuge
Dar min de an engine gro
An east ans huge ei
Fong ednar u vaxhedne more neo.


23.Di lava mir gugna
Yift bal yagh fur o lande
Gipt mir nu fruan Hildina
Vath godle u fasta bande.

 

24. Nu bill on heve da yals
Guadnè borè u da kadn
Sina kloyn a bera do skall
Fon fruna Hildina verka wo sino chelsina villya.*

 

25.Hildina liger wo chaldona
U o dukrar u grothè
Min du buga till bridlevsin
Bonlother u duka dogha.


26.Nu Hildina on askar feyrin
Sien di gava mier livè
Ou skinka vin
Ou guida vin.*


27.Duska skinka vin, u guida vin
Tinka dogh eke wo
Jarlin an gougha here din.*


28.Watha skilde tinka
Wo Jarlin gouga herè min
Hien minde yagh inga forlskona
Bera fare kera fyrin min.

29.Da gerde on fruna Hildina
On bar se mien ot
On soverin fest,
Fysin u quarsin sat.


30.Da gerde un fruna Hildina
On bard im ur
Hadlin burt sien on laghdè
Gloug I osta jatha port.


31.Nu iki visti an Hiluge
Ike ov till do
Eldin var commin i lut
U stor u silkè sark ans smo.


32.Nu leveren fram
Hiluge du kereda
Fraun Hildina du
Gevemir live u gre


33.So mege u gouga gre
Skall dogh swo
Skall lathì min heran
I bardagana fwo.


34. Du tuchtada lide undocht yach
Swo et sa ans bugin bleo
Dogh casta ans huge
I mit fung u vexemir mise meo.

 

35.Nu tachtè on heve fwelsko
Ans bo vad mild u stien
Dogh skall aidè misè Koningnsens
Vadna vilda mien.

 

    Stanzas marked thus * seem to be confused, some having too much, others too little to render the verse complete.

    A literal translation of the above I could not procure, but the substance is this:—"An Earl of Orkney, in some of his rambles on the coast of Norway, saw and fell in love with the King's daughter of the country. As their passion happened to be reciprocal, he carried her off in her father's absence, who was engaged in war with some of his distant neighbours. On his return, he followed the fugitives to Orkney, accompanied by his army, to revenge on the Earl the rape of his daughter. On his arrival there, Hildina (which was her name), first spied him, and advised her now husband to go and attempt to pacify the King. He did so, and by his appearance and promise brought the King so over as to be satisfied with the match. This, however, was of no long standing, for as soon as the Earl's back was turned a courtier, called Hiluge, took great pains to change the King's mind, for it seems Hiluge had formerly hoped to succeed with the daughter himself. His project took, and the matter came to blows; the Earl is killed by Hiluge, who cut off his head and threw it at his lady, which, she says, vexed her even more than hi death, that he should add cruelty to revenge. Upon the Earl's death, Hildina is forced to follow her father to Norway, and in a little time Hiluge makes his demand to have her in marriage of her father; he consents, and takes every method to persuade Hildina, who, with great reluctance, agrees upon condition that she is allowed to fill the wine at her wedding. This is easily permitted, and Hildina infuses a drug which soon throws the company into a dead sleep, and after ordering her father to be removed, set the house on fire. The flame soon rouses Hiluge, who piteously cries for mercy, but the taunts he had bestowed at the death of the Earl of Orkney are now bitterly returned, and he is left to perish in the flames." Such is the subject of the Ballad, which might have been built on a true story, tho' now lost. It, however, shews the genius of the people, that tho' they were cut off from the rest of the world they had amusements, and these correspondent to the manners of the Northerns, among whom nothing was more common than the recital of the acts of their fathers. Most of all their tales are relative to the history of Norway; they seem to know little of the rest of Europe but by names; Norwegian transactions they have at their fingers' ends.

                 A Few English words translated into Norn

 

Foula,xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Fugla or Uttrie

An Island,xxxxxxxxxx

Hion.

Bread,xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Coust.

Oat Bread,xxxxxxxxxx

Corka Coust.

Barley Bread,xxxxxxx

Boga Coust.

The Sea,xxxxxxxxxxxx

Sheug.

A Fish,xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Fisk.

A Haddock,xxxxxxxxxx

Hoissan.

A Cod,xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Gronge, Grodningar.

A Ling,xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Longo.

A Herring,xxxxxxxxxx

Sildin.

A Rock,xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Berg, Berrie.

A Boat,xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Bodin, Knorin.

A Sail,xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Seiglè

A Mast,xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Mostin.

A Coat,xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Quot.

A Shoe,xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Seugin.

A Stocking,xxxxxxxxx

Sokin.

A Cap,xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Uga.

Sea Mall or Mew,xxxx

Whit fuglin.

The Eagle,xxxxxxxxxx

Ednin.

A Trencher or Plate,…

Bergesken.

A Spoon,xxxxxxxxxxxx

Sponin.

A Ladle,xxxxxxxxxxxx

Heosa.

A Horse,xxxxxxxxxxxx

Hessin.

A Mare,xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Rupa.

A Cow,xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Kurin.

A Sheep,xxxxxxxxxxxx

Fie, Sedvite.

A Ewexxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Oron.

A Pott,xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Posney.

 

    In the middle of the easternmost enclosure stands a little neat Church, where divine service is performed once or twice a year, either by the parson of Waes, to whose charge they belong, or by an itinerant, sent by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, Thro’ the rest of the year the parish clerk reads the Scriptures. 

    In the Church-yard observed a large round stone which I could just easily lift, formerly of great use to the inhabitants. This was the Putting Stone of the island, and here the whole community met on Sunday afternoon, the younger sort to try their strength at putting, the elders as spectators and reciters of ancient matches at putting, nay sometimes mixed in the diversion. They have a fixed stone, which is the standing goal, and I observed several marks, by driving stones into the earth, which they told me was the distance where such and such an old man, now gone, threw the Putting Stone, at the same time lamenting that now none in the isle could come up with them. 

    The greatest part of the rocks round the island are freestone. No Alpine plants on the hill, which surprised me. The hill shoots up into many peaks, each of which have their names in Norn. The southernmost is the Noup, the next Liorafield, from Liora, signifying a (lum) chimney or vent; here is said to be the famous vent or hole mentioned by Brand, now stopped up with great care, nor could I get a sight of it, from a superstitious notion among the people, that he who opens the Hole of Liorafield the first time he is in the island dies immediately after, and this was the only thing I could find them shy in. .. . none of the present generation ever saw it open and tho' we carried up lines to measure it and a guide, both proved useless. . .. The third, or highest top is Sneugo, the habitation of Skua; the fourth, Commafield; the last, the Keam, or habitation of the sea birds. 

    In ascending the hills the weather varied very much, especially as to heat and cold. The bottoms, stifling hot, would scarce allow us to wear our clothes, but as we approached the top it became so cold as scarce to be borne, and this attended with a driving, piercing mist, that soon wet us to the skin. N.B. – The whole time I was in Foula never saw the land of Schetland but once; am informed this is no novelty in the summer time, fogs prevail continually. When tolerably clear, no night for near three months. 

    Saturday, July 9th.—Took leave of these hospitable people, and set out on our return for Vailasound; we had not, however, proceeded above10 miles when the wind shifted all of a sudden, and forced us to return. As it continued tolerable weather, and we had time enough, as we imagined, to carry us in; how soon we got upon the fishing grounds, we threw out a couple of lines, and in something more than an hour caught 19 fine Cod, not of the largest size indeed, but fine thick fish, and grown to the very tail. The colour, when just caught, a fine willow green, shaded with a pale yellow, but this they lost almost instantaneously. …. . . Coming up with the land, we found we had spent our tide, and the flood set down very strong against us; and for our comfort it became so misty that we could scarce see the island. In a moment we hurried past it into the south roust, which made us pay heartily for our Cod: the waves on all sides dancing mast high, threatened instant destruction; dashing straight down into the boat, almost filled her in a twinkling; as fast as we could throw out we could scarce keep her clear: however the Foula men, who had observed us before the fog, and suspecting what had happened, sent out a couple of boats, better acquainted than we, who after a most hearty wetting bout towed us safe into the harbour. To compensate our labour, we had a most excellent supper of Codfish (rendered I suppose more delicate by their being so dear bought) and a dish peculiar to Schetland and fishing countries, called Livered Mogies; that is, the stomach of the fish washed clean and filled with the liver, so boiled in saltwater. It is eaten with pepper and salt, and tastes very well if the liver is good and not old; but so much oil requires a dram to qualify it, which the Schetland people in general are not sparing of.

     Sunday, July 10th.—At the desire of the whole island, preached twice to a most attentive audience of the whole community. These honest creatures, out of the simplicity of their hearts, are not shy to express their approbation of a publick discourse even in words, and that aloud.  

    Monday, July 11th.—Took leave of Foula for all, the wind shaping about, at 3 o 'clock in the morning. By nine we arrived in Vaila-Sound, whence we set out.

 

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A translation of the first twelve verses of the Hildina Ballad

It was the Earl from Orkney,
And counsel of his kin sought he,
Whether he should the maiden
Free from her misery.

"If thou free the maid from her gleaming hall,
O kinsman dear of mine,
Ever while the world shall last
Thy glory still shall shine."

Home came the King,
Home from the ship's levy
The lady Hildina she was gone,
And only her stepmother there found he.

"Be he in whatever land,
This will I prove true,
He shall be hanged from the highest tree
That ever upward grew."

"If the Earl but come to Orkney,
Saint Magnus will be his aid,
And in Orkney ever he will remain -
Haste after him with speed."

The King he stood before his lady,
And a box on her ear gave he,
And all adown her lily white cheeks
The tears did flow truly.

The Earl he stood before Hildina,
And a pat on her cheek gave he, -
"O which of us two would thou have lie dead,
Thy father dear or me?"

"I would rather see my father doomed,
And all his company,
If so my own true lord and I
May long rule in Orkney.

"Now do thou take in hand thy steed,
and ride thou down to the strand;
And do thou greet my sire full blithely,
And gladly will he clasp thy hand."

The King he now made answer -
So sore displeased was he -
"In payment for my daughter
What wilt thou give to me?"

"Thirty marks of the red gold,
This to thee will I give,
And never shalt thou lack a son
As long as I may live."

Now long stood the King,
And long on the Earl gazed he : -
"O thou art worth a host of sons;
Thy boon is granted thee."

 

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From The Shetland Story by Kjorsvik Schei & Gunnie Moberg

In 1774 the young Orkney minister George Low travelled around in Shetland and also visited Foula, which long was the last bastion of Norn. He wrote that there were some who still knew Norn on the island, but that the Norse language was the speech of the last generation and would be entirely lost by the next.

    'None of them can write their ancient language, and but very few speak it, the best phrases are all gone, and nothing remains but a few names of things and two or three remnants of songs which one old man can repeat and that but indistinctly.' (A Tour through the Islands of Orkney and Shetland, Kirkwall 1879)

    The old man referred to by Low was William Henry, a crofter at Guttorm in Foula. He sang a ballad in Norn for George Low, who being a Scotsman did not understand what he heard. Low therefore wrote down its 35 stanzas the way it sounded to him. He called it The Earl of Orkney and the King of Norway's Daughter: a Ballad. It is also known as the Ballad of Hildina, and Low's original manuscript is kept in The Advocates' Library in Edinburgh. William Henry was unable to read or write, but he had an exceptionally fine memory. The composition of the ballad shows that Henry himself must have had a fairly good understanding of what he was singing.

Low put much effort into his difficult task. He made some obvious mistakes like splitting up words or lines, and for a long time the text was considered the unreadable remains of a dying language. In 1900 the Norwegian linguist Marius Haegstad made a careful study of Low's original manuscript. He had then for many years been intrigued by what he called 'the linguistic riddle of the Hildina Ballad'.

From Low's text  7th stanza               Haegstad's version:
In kimerin Iarlin                                    In Kimer in Iarlin
U klapasse Hildina                               u klapa se Hildina onde kidn;
On de kidn quirto                                'Quirto vult doch fiegan vara
Vult doch, fiegan vara moch                 moch or fy din?'
or fly din.

    In English this would be: 'In comes the Earl and kisses Hildina on her cheek; "Who would you want dead, me or your father?"' Through his linguistic analysis Haegstad found a strangely intact language. Of the 260 words used in the ballad, all may be Norse; this, however, is disputable, as not all of Low's handwriting is equally legible. Another Norwegian scholar, Sophus Bugge, was able to reconstruct the ballad the way it probably was when it was composed. This is the same stanza in literary Norse:

Inn kemr hann jarlinn

ok klappar ser Hildina undir kinn:

'Hvart vilo pu feigan vera

mik efla fodur binn?'

    This is the Lord's Prayer as Low took it down from an old woman in Foula:

   'Fy vor o er i Chimeri. Halaght vara nam dit. La Konungdum din cumma. La vill din vera guerde i vrildin senda eri chimeri. Gav vus dagh u dagloght brau. Forgive sindor wara sin vi forgiva gem ao sinda gainst wus. Lia wus eke o vera tempa, but delivra wus fro adlu idlu for doi ir Konungdum, u puri, u glori, Amen.'

    In this text we find six Anglo-Scots words, but two of these are part of the final blessing. This was not used in the Norse version of the Lord's Prayer, and has evidently been added later, owing to Scottish influence.

    Apart from fragments, the Norse literature that once was a living tradition in Shetland survives today only in The Ballad of Hildina, or The Earl of Orkney, and the King of Norway's Daughter, a Ballad, as it was called by George Low when he wrote it down in Foula in 1774. The first part of this ballad tells of how the Earl of Orkney abducts the Norwegian princess Hildina while her father is away. The King goes to Orkney to challenge him. Illugi, one of the King's men, thwarts an attempt at peace. The Earl is killed in the ensuing battle, and Illugi throws his severed head in Hildina's lap. In the second part of the ballad Hildina is forced to marry Illugi, whose name literally means 'of evil mind'. She takes her revenge by having him burned alive on their wedding day.

This ballad is unique and so is its history. It is known only from the garbled version taken down by a man who did not understand anything of what he was writing. The ballad is not historical in the sense that it describes a real event, but it is a poetic version of a theme that was known and used even in the Viking Age. Both the form and many of the expressions used throughout the ballad are part of a common Nordic tradition. It may not have been made in Shetland, as the ballads wandered, but the casting of the Earl of Orkney as the romantic lover does suggest a Shetland or Orkney origin.

    In the original legend Hild is the daughter of King Hogne. She is abducted by Hedin, the King's foster brother. Her father finds them, and in the battle that follows both Hogne and Hedin are killed. The battle is without end because every night Hild wakes the dead. This legend appears first in the Anglo-Saxon poem 'Widsid' from the fifth century, and is also used in the German poem 'Kudrun'. It is mentioned by Earl Rognvald Kali Kolsson, the Orkney poet, in his Hattalykill, and by Snorri Sturluson in his Edda. In the older versions Hild incites strife and is merely a personification of battle—the Norse word for battle was hildr, and a frequently used kenning for battle was Hild's play. For later writers her motivation in waking the dead is the romantic desire to see her lover again. In the Hildina ballad the pagan, supernatural element has been removed altogether, and the character of Hildina has become fashioned to the ideals of the age of chivalry, when the ballad was probably made.

This tale of love and violence was part of a rich ballad tradition that has now been lost:

    The great delight, however, of the ancient udaller's convivial hours was the recitation of Norwegian ballads. Shetland was ... from time immemorial, celebrated for its native poets ... Not longer ago than seventy years a number of popular historic ballads existed in Shetland ... (Samuel Hibbert, A Description of the Shetland Islands, 1822)

    At one time Telemark, Agder and the western counties of Norway, together with Orkney, Shetland, Faroe and Iceland, formed one cultural area that had Bergen as a natural centre. For the study of Norse ballads it is sad that practically all of the Shetland tradition is gone, as the answers to many intriguing questions disappeared with it. The Shetland ballads and stories seem to have been closely related to Norwegian and Faroese tradition:

    Most or all of their tales are relative to the history of Norway; they seem to know little of the rest of Europe but by names; Norwegian transactions they have at their fingers' ends. (George Low, A Tour through Orkney and Schetland, 1774)

    About a century after George Low took down the Ballad of Hildina from William Henry in Guttorn, Dr Jakobsen was given a fragment of old verse at Lerabakk in Foula. This is the version taken down phonetically by Dr Jakobsen as well as the way it probably read in its original Norse form:

I have malt maeldra                  I have ground my morning-meal                  Ek hef malit
min
meldra minn
I have supet usen                           
I have swept the floor;
ek hef sopat husin; 

Ende seve de sede lin                      still the old wife sleeps
Enn a sefr at saeta lin,
And dene komene lusa            
and the daylight is in the lum.
ok dagrinn er kominn I ljos         

    This is the story of the harassed husband who has to look after himself and the house while his wife sleeps on till late in the morning. In another fragment from the same song, also found by Jakobsen, the husband tries to force the hens to lay, and when he does not succeed, he starts swearing at the black hen: 'Idla jalsa swarta tap—be damned, black hen'. This is classical comic verse found in all Scandinavian countries. The oldest written version is included in a collection of Danish verse from the sixteenth century. The kenning tin, linen, for a woman is often used in Icelandic poetry, but otherwise this fragment is closest to the Faroese version.

As recently as 1958, a Norn verse was heard from George (Dodie) Isbister in Foula, which, written roughly phonetically, went:

                                              Ante pedu, sat a growla
                                              Sat a growla festa, 
                                              Pirla moga,  hench a boga,
                                              Settar alla nesta

This is evidently a fragment of the Eagle Song, of which Jakobsen also got fragments. 

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The Foula variant of the Faroese "Gryla" verse recorded by Jakobsen in 1897.

Skekla komena rina tuna
swarta hæsta blæta bruna
fo'mtena (fjo'mtan) hala
and fo'mtena (fjo'mtan) bjadnis a kwara hala.


Loosely translated, this means:-

"Skekla (an ogress) rides into the homefield                                                                          on a black horse with a white patch on its brow,                                                                  with fifteen tails                                                                                                                  and fifteen children on each tail."

 

Scholars call the old Norse language of Shetland 'Norn'.  In Foula it was known as 'Da Dansk'.  Tradition has it that the language died out in two generations.  Grandparents  refused to teach 'Dat auld dirt' to their grandchildren.  A major trigger for this attitude was probably the teaching of the English Bible in a school established in the island in 1740 by the Scottish Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge.

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